Had a great couple of days climbing – a day in Glendalough which started well with leads of Provo VS 4c, Celia VS 4c (both very pleasant little routes) and then the brilliant Concrete Wallflower E1 5b. From here things got…interesting! We decided (laziness doesn’t pay, just like your mother told you) to try and make a single abseil descent from the top of Concrete…in short, we got very wet, very scared and felt very stupid. Soloing about in slimy waterfalls a hundred feet up is just not clever.
Then, yesterday, with the motivation of Diarmuid threatening to steal it from me, I got on a line in Dalkey that I first saw as a possibility a few years back before I left for Perth.
With Diarmuid and Carole egging me on, I toproped it and cleaned it, but still felt pretty unsure of my ability to lead it. Had a break for Diarmuid to do Bird Brain 6b (the side runner way – E2 apparently – ungradeable more likely) then had one more look at my line on a rope, checked gear placements and decided to go for it. It goes at E2/3 6a, and takes the true line up the right groove of Jameson Ten finishing up the thin crack in the green headwall with a hard tecnical sequence on poor fingerlocks and small footholds, to a crimp and massive reach to a juggy topout. The name? In honour of my imminent departure, it will be Tasmanian Devil E2/3 6a and is worth a couple of stars. Photos to follow if any of Carole’s come out well (bad light, so we will see…)